Friday XC races

After a lot of trainer miles and solo rides over the last year we're back to some regular racing again. Most of what I do is pretty local- the wednesday XC and CX series plus the occasional road, cx, and mtb race on a weekend somewhere.

This year the "wed xc" races are Fridays and we're doing a full day where you can do it solo, time trial style, or a mass start depending on your comfort/vaccination level. The course and timing are set up pretty much all day and then there's an actual race in the evening. This year I'm also working for Shaun/MTCX so I'm there all day helping get the course and things ready. Running all over up and down a mountain is probably not the ideal pre-race routine but on the other hand getting payed to be at a race is nice too.

Week one we did only the "show and go" format with a max starting group size of 4. I went out with Cory, Kory, and Owen and it was almost like a real bike race. It was a pretty short course, up the road to the lower part of hot sauce and right back down, so I rode my old hardtail for the extra uphill speed. It definitely doesn't handle rougher trails and the downhill like my hei hei but it sure climbs better. I wound up 7th, behind all the people I'd expect including Howard Grotts, who lives here now.

Week two was the first time I've worn full spandex on my hei hei I think. This was 2 laps of the full xc course and it's nice to have a more modern bike. I was in a good spot for about the first 5 minutes and then guys started pulling away and one more passed me. I stayed there and held off the fastest masters racers (here we do 40 plus and I'm getting close to there and we all started together). Thankfully it was only two laps because I was not having a good time. It was the first warm one and that always gets me. Like halfway up on the 2nd lap it seemed to be a little cooler and then I felt alright to the end.

The hei hei does make up decent ground coming back down. Comparing my best lap on strava I'm even for the first five minutes, and then lose 37 seconds in the next ~7 to the top of the last road climb before you get onto a kind of rolling bit of trail across the top of the course. There it's pretty even- gain a little ground going down, lose a bit on the short climb back up, then lose a bunch on the last stretch of road to the top, at this point I'm 52 seconds back on about a 20min lap. Then I come back to within 36. picking up 22s over about 3 minutes. However that is compared to my fastest lap, but not my fastest descent on the hardtail.

But maybe this will be an xc bike yet. It's close to 5lbs heavier but for the most part I was glad to be on it, and I have some lighter parts hopefully coming in the next few weeks. The guy in front of me kept riding away on the road and then I caught him at the bottom of the first lap. Then did it again on lap 2 and was almost in a sprint finish. Also, I did my fastest 2nd lap ever so that's something. Comparison says I did the 2nd half from the top, across, and down about 30s faster, and then was only significantly slower on the first part of the climb where you're basically sprinting. Kind of promising that I can put down a lap a good amount faster than I've done if I can just put it all together.

Behind Howard, Ivan finished 2nd and then his dad was 2nd in masters so we got some decent team points tonight. I was 10, after a 7th last week.

Carlton Ridge and a little more

I've been trying to write up some of the better rides I do, and this one is about a ride south of town just outside of Lolo. Lolo Peak is the north end of the Bitterroot mountain range and I want to say it's just shy of 10k feet tall, which isn't the biggest one down there, but with the valley floor at 3300 or so they all stick up quite a bit, and lolo peak has a whole bunch of mass.

Much of the bitterroot is in wilderness, including the top of lolo peak, so there isn't a ton of mountain biking, but the north/east side of the mountain isn't and there are a couple of pretty good trails.

The other nice thing is that a road goes a good way up to the lolo peak trailhead, so you can shuttle these rides.

That's carlton ridge back there. The trail climbs up, goes down the other side to a lake, and then you can continue up to lolo peak. The lake/dam is the wilderness boundary. You can see that it was all burned in that fire a few years ago. It was a big one.

 

This was from the hill above my neighborhood way on the north side of missoula

 

That was 2017, and the trials up there were closed for over a year, because, well, they basically didn't exist anymore. But they were rebuilt and reopened by late summer 2018.

The trailhead

3 years later, much of the area is still charred grey and black and lifeless

But there are also patches of green and it will all come back eventually. The open-ness is actually really nice when you're up there. it's brighter and you have good visibility. And a neat strobe effect as you ride through the shadows of the burnt trees

The climb to the trailhead is pretty long, so it's common to do a partial shuttle and not even go all the way to the top of carlton ridge. Just the mill creek trail back down to the highway is a really fun ride and involves very little uphill pedaling. However, having been all the way up to carlton ridge a couple times I've found it to be worth the effort. It is pretty far up there, the ridge being an elevation of 8300ft, making for about a 5k foot climb from the bottom. But then 5k back down, nearly all the way to highway 12 on singletrack. you probably want a squishy bike as it's a little rougher than most of the missoula trails.

 

Since the fire, I'd even say the carlton ridge trail is the best riding up there. The mill creek isn't quite the same and is much narrower, looser, off-camber, and a little overgrown. The lower part, before you hit the creek, has you struggling to even keep your tires on the tread, and I would say it definitely needs a little work. It is still a lot of fun, with some steep, technical corners and a big rock garden when you hit the creek. The calton ridge trail is open and bright with many roots, rocks, and high speed sections.

Normally, just driving out there and riding carlton ridge and mill creek is a big ride and more than enough for the day. But I did this during the move MT challenge, so just that didn't quite cut it. Instead of driving I rode from home, but also I had a secondary goal for the day- climb to blue mountain from the hwy 12 side. I had a track, and a general idea of how long it would take, and gave myself a cutoff time for when I needed to be at the bottom of mill creek. It seemed like I was ok, so after a water and snack break at the travelers rest store I went back up the highway instead of back down to lolo and the bike path.

Just climbing up to the top of blue mountain is another big ride in itself, and going the back way is longer and a lot less straightforward than just going up blue mountain road. There isn't really a direct route, and I'd never done it before, and was relying on a gps track i created myself in caltopo by drawing a line that seemed to go through on satellite imagery. It, uh, doesn't if you only have a forest service topo.

 

I hope this is right. Gee, I still have a long way to go. If you look closely you can see the blue mountain fire lookout up there

 

Eventually I came to a road with signs of use, and followed that to woodman saddle, which is just off the back of blue mountain. Then a bit of moto trail got me to the top

 

Where I was

 

Then it was a fast, fun descent down deadman's ridge and then straight to the dram shop for a beer.

This one's a pretty big day so make sure you bring snacks. I wound up with something like 70mi and 9000ft of climbing.

Shimano RX-8 gravel shoes

A few years ago, I can't say I was very excited by Shimano's shoes. I even tried some on (the previous XC7) the last time I was shopping and they didn't fit right or feel comfortable. I wound up with some sidi dominators, which fit me great, just like the geniuses I've had for almost 10 years. But then last summer I won a pair of the pretty blue S-phyre RC9 road shoes and suddenly Shimano had my interest.  With my discounts resetting at the end of the year I was looking for something to buy, and decided on another pair of shoes. Also they were about all Shimano had in stock. The replacement parts situation is not good right now. So here they are, the "gravel" shoe:

They're super light and sleek and cool looking, have a stiff carbon sole, and a BOA IP1 dial like the rc9 and xc9.

The nice thing about these dials is they work in both directions so you can loosen the shoe by just a click or two if you need to, compared to having to fully release the lower end dials.

One thing that differs between these fancy shimanos and other cycling shoes is that you're right on the carbon sole without a foot... board thing in between. I'm no expert on shoe construction but noticed that under the insoles of all my other shoes there's some sort of a wooden? board thing between the insole and sole of the shoe. I assume not having it in there makes the shoe lighter but probably takes a little more work to shape properly. It also reduces the stack enough where I had to lower the saddle on my road bike and if you've seen Phil Gaimon's newest video he mentions it.

These rx8s are really similar in construction to the RC9s (and XC9 mtb shoe), but cost, uh, a lot less at $225 vs $425. I suppose they're considered more on the same level as the rc7 and xc7, which cost the same. S-phyres are pricey. But also very shiny and blue  and will make you feel like the prettiest princess. I've even had someone yell "nice shoes" at me and I think he was being serious (you can get other colors, if you really want).

The insoles are even nearly identical between the two and include two different arch supports that stick to the bottom

Like I mentioned, the s-phyre puts the insole right on the carbon, but the RX8 adds a very thin layer of foam that I assume is there to add a bit of comfort and vibration absorption.

The s-phyres have that 2nd boa dial, which is nice, and the interior fabric around your ankle is  softer, and they have the cool heel gripping fabric. But it's a little hard to see what makes them cost almost twice as much. I did still consider the XC9s over these RX8s. Between the two, the sole itself is probably the biggest difference, as the XC9 has more substantial lugs and holes for toe spikes, and would be more appropriate for racing cyclocross (well, as long as you're ok with running through mud in $400 shoes). Look close at a world cup race and you'll see a lot of them.

The RX8, on the other hand, has kind of a narrow, minimal sole lugs and is really meant for rides where you aren't having to get off and run or walk. I'm a little concerned about gouging up that fancy carbon on the bottom going over rocky hike a bike situations. There were a few rides last year where I walked a lot (alpine 7 and the miller divide backwards on my cx bike for example), and I'm not sure I'd want to be wearing these. They do have a nice rubber pad to give you a little more grip if you miss clipping in, and will likely be perfectly fine for dry, grassy cx races where you don't have to run up a muddy bank.

The unfortunate thing is that I've only worn them for about 45 minutes on the trainer so far and it'll probably be months before I actually go out on a real ride with them. I didn't have any issues for that short spin with thin socks, but they are a little narrow compared to my sidis, so we will see if I regret not ordering the wide version, or if they'll break in a bit. They supposedly have the same fit as the s-phyres but they seem just a bit tighter across the toes.

I'll also admit that a "gravel specific" shoe seems a little bit dumb and ridiculous. At the same time, that does fairly accurately describe a large portion of my riding, and they look a lot cooler than my sidis, which despite being pretty new look like they could be from 20 years ago.

In other news, I'm going to start posting mostly on patreon now instead of blogger. It works about the same, and I suspect most things are going to be public, but there's a slim chance people will kick me a few bucks here and there so why not.

https://www.patreon.com/user?u=46334758

Cold weather riding gear roundup

 If the roads are reasonably dry, I tend to push the edges of the seasons and get out there when it's pretty cold. So far this has been a pretty dry winter and I'm still getting out on rides into December despite the new zwift setup.

The thing is it's hard to be comfortable when it's in the 30s and that kind of means a lot of specialized winter bike clothing. What I find most important is keeping my hands and feet warm. Then wear a warm enough jacket and you'll probably be ok for a little while at least. A buff/neck warmer is also a big must have. From there it all kind of gets optional.

Until this year my go to setup was a pair of hand me down 45nrth fasterkatts a size too big, running tights over regular bib shorts, and a softshell jacket that seems to be meant for running and xc skiing. it's fairly slim fitting, or was when I got it, but now it's a bit flappy. My gloves were pearl izumi softshells that are pretty warm, but have some holes in them now and the padding in the palms is annoying and adds unnecessary bulk. So it was all kind of patched together, but worked well enough.

Thanks to working at MBW this year I had a little extra cash plus some pretty good discounts and decided I needed to get some better stuff for winter.

Firstly, bib tights. I've wanted some of these for awhile and now that I have some I'm wondering what I was thinking just doing tights over bibs or leg warmers for all these years. They're super warm and cozy and so much better. The ones I have are pearl izumi amfibs, but there are plenty of similar ones out there. I want another pair so I can ride more between loads of laundry.

Probably more important are the shoes. I went with shimano's MW7 goretex shoe and they are really warm. I've seen sub 20f, and been out for 4 hours in below freezing weather and my toes were happy the whole time. I'm surprised at how much warmer these are than the fasterkatts, and they have a nice flap over the top to keep water and grime out of the tongue and boa laces. My only problem right now is there's a small gap between the bottom of the tight and the top of the shoe, so your sock gets wet and then eventually there's water in the waterproof shoe. I'm thinking I need some little flaps or sleeves or something that I can have under the tight and over the top of the shoe.

So what else? Oh yeah gloves. You need to have good gloves. I'm still trying to figure out how to handle the really cold days but for low 30s my new POC thermal gloves are pretty nice

The other ones are the PI amfib lite, which are a great cool weather glove, say high 40s. No padding or insulation on the palm so you get good feel from the bars and controls but some light insulation and wind resistant on the back. This is my 3rd version of these gloves.

Probably my only gripe with the POC is the wrist opening, which is just big and open. Some sort of a cuff or closure would help keep warm air in your gloves. Also they're expensive, and I doubt I would have bought them without the "pro deal." Pros are they really warm for their weight and allow good control and dexterity.

When it's like, 20f out there they don't cut it, and I think bar mitts are probably the only solution for that. I'm thinking about trying to see how well I can ride with light over mitts, and eyeing lobster gloves, but those won't work for one finger braking on a mountain bike. My other thought is battery powered heated gloves.

My other big cold weather riding purchase was a new jacket. Pearl Izumi's "PRO insulated jacket." PRO means it's their nicest stuff, and generally slimmer fitting. MSRP for this thing is $225. So I'm not sure what's going on with this basic, shapeless jacket missing some important features.

The one thing it has going for it is the fancy polartec alpha insulation, which is really light and warm.

But as a cycling jacket, it's fairly mediocre. I'm going to cut this short though and make a whole post about it later.

Well that about covers it. Wear an appropriate number of layers under your jacket and then don't forget the buff/neck warmer. The other thing I've done is stuff my thin, light, down jacket in a pack or frame bag and that can get put on over top of everything if I need it. When I was up on university mountain a few weeks ago I was glad to have it for the descent down the open ridgeline in the wind.

Trails where you can ride an e-bike

This is a much shorter list than the places where you can't. MTB missoula has a pretty good guide to the regulations, but no real specifics. You might read this:

https://www.mtbmissoula.org/post/e-bikes-what-you-need-to-know

And then wind up a little more confused than you were before. What is clear, is that as far as the USFS is concerned, they are a motorized vehicle. So on forest service land, you can only ride them on open roads and OHV (dirt bikes, atvs, etc) trails. A gate on a forest service road means it's closed to motorized vehicles, and yes, even e-bikes. Soo, if you're looking for somewhere to ride an ebike on FS land, the best way to see where you can go is to look at the motorized use maps. To find these, you can search for something like "lolo nf mvum" and a link like this will come up:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/detailfull/lolo/maps-pubs/?cid=stelprdb5097692&width=full

Those are all for the lolo national forest, which is where we are in missoula. Other nearby forests are the bitterroot and superior ranger districts, which have their own maps. Roads and trails on these maps open to motor vehicles and ebikes are highlighted.

Also you can look at a full mvum in arcgis here:

https://www.arcgis.com/home/webmap/viewer.html?useExisting=1&layers=18de7e3f022a432f850c864ad4ba952d

In case it wasn't clear, all the trails in the rattlesnake are closed to ebikes. As are the marshall mountain trails, mount sentinel, and pattee canyon areas. You can't even ride one on the deer creek sneak. But you can ride up deer creek road, and up above pattee, to the miller divide trail. Also in that area are a number of roads like allen creek from turah and holloman saddle, and it's mostly all open to e-bikes.

The other part of missoula that allows e-bikes is Blue Mountain. But not very much of it- just the parts open to motorized vehicles such as deadman's ridge, orchard, and hayes creek. One thing to note about this is that motorized use on those trails is seasonal. In the spring when the gate on the road is closed and you can't drive to the moto trailhead, all those trails are also closed to motorized use, and yes, e-bikes. But if I had an e-mtb, blue mountain, and all the area beyond, is where I'd spend most of my time. From the top, there are a lot of places you can go, like all the way out to the southside road, petty creek, or highway 12.

Speaking of highway 12, I noticed one trail on the mvum that I didn't expect to see - mill creek on lolo peak. However, to ride it you have to do an out and back from the bottom- the section from the mormon peak road trailhead does not allow e-bikes (and neither does the trail from carlton ridge).

Going farther up highway 12, there are also some lines on the map in the graves cr/petty cr and lolo pass areas. Whether the trails exist and are clear is another question, but they're there.

Eventually I'll probably make a public map on caltopo with some of these routes and trails and roads highlighted but for now I'm about done typing. Here's a list of some of the trails that are open to ebikes

Miller divide 512

Mill Creek 1310

Ninemile divide

blue mountain

telephone butte area
1220
720

lolo pass/lolo hot spring/petty creek/wagon mountain area
26
322
289
295
skookum butte

Bitterroot-rock cr divide 313

sweathouse creek
121
122

Warm springs, lost trail pass area is almost all open to motorized use

recent ride pictures

Been getting out a lot for the Move MT challenge. Tom Robertson and I are going back and forth for 2nd place in the 10 highest peaks challenge and chasing Alan Adams, who is on a quest to ride a million vertical feet this year.

New road wheels

I've been getting by on some pretty busted wheels and this year finally got some replacements for both the road and cx bikes. The road bike was the first to get something as I was riding it a lot this spring and the mavic ksyriums were starting to show their age. The rear freehub still had play after first going to oversized bushings and then a bearing, and the hub bearings themselves were starting to knock. On the plus side, they were still perfectly true after probably over 10k miles of hard use ranging from dirt roads on road tires to racing cx to riding singletrack. Aside from the rear freehub issues common with mavics I don't have any major complaints.

For the road bike I wanted something more aerodynamic, and for the cx bike I wanted something wider and tubeless. While working on missoula xc stuff at the mtb missoula and cycling house office I asked Shaun if he had anything around. And yes, he did have some Heds jet 6s in the basement that he let me have for practically nothing.

They're a little older, and I had to get an axle and freehub and have them dished for 11 speed, but they're straight and wooshy. I took the giant stickers off immediately to keep the all black subtle look going but did get those snazzy tan wall vittoria corsa controls. I liked the open paves a lot and these are the new version of those. They're smooth and fast but jury is still out on durability and flat protection. I basically never got a flat with the open paves and have a couple on these already. But when you run over a staple it's going through just about anything. These are the "C2" rim and so are 23mm external, 18mm internal width. It makes the 25mm vittoria measure a touch over 27 and that's the most tire that will fit between the chainstays on this bike.

They're 60mm deep, and do seem to go faster out on the flat. Going 22-24mph just seems easier than before, although I was on the mavics with maxxis refuses last fall and for the early season this year so just going to a much faster tire is part of it. Plus getting that fitness back. I do plan to tape over all the holes for the fairings as I hear that helps. You do notice that depth in windier conditions but it's got to be pretty gusty and a crosswind for it to be much of an issue. Also, it's a different feeling from being pushed around with narrower wheels. I'd call it less abrupt, and more of like, gentle nudging.